Shoestring Survival Guide: Shopping Your Closet

Everybody’s feeling it—the Dow is dropping daily, and so is your savings account for a new spring wardrobe. But looking like a million bucks and spending a million bucks are rarely connected. In fact, you're probably more fashionable than you think because there are dozens of outfits in your closet waiting to be discovered, right there among the clothes you already own. While the economy is forcing us to decide between needs and wants, now is the perfect time to get creative, get organized, and look fabulous while embracing the Three R's (reducing, reusing, and recycling) by shopping your own closet. Here's how:

REDUCE

The best way to maximize your wardrobe is to know exactly what you have. This discovery process usually leads to tossing items that aren't serving your needs. Every time I conduct a Wardrobe Editing session with a client, I inevitably hear the words, "Oh, I totally forgot about that!" Clothes in your immediate field of vision are the ones that get worn. The ones shoved in drawers, stuffed in Tupperware containers under the bed, and hiding in the corners of your closet are the ones that get forgotten.

If the idea of dealing with your wardrobe is completely overwhelming, don't panic! Instead, follow these organization hints to get things moving and have fun with it:

Pull items that don't fit.
This is the hardest part of reducing any wardrobe because it means having an honest conversation with yourself about body size. You need clothes at your disposal that fit who you are right here, right now. If you go up and down in size, know that it tends to be the rule, not the exception. It's time to release the clothes that don’t fit you at your current weight. This process can be difficult, but it also frees the anxiety that comes along with the daily trip to your closet. No, you may not be a size 8 right now, but why look at the size 8 dress every day and get upset that you can't wear it or it won't look flattering? My rule of thumb is if you haven’t worn it in a year, get rid of it.

Gather memories.
Do you still have the sweater you wore on your first date with your husband? A ratty T-shirt that your favorite aunt gave you? Sentimental items don’t need to be tossed, but they do need to be set aside in a place outside your daily line of vision. Gather these clothes, put them in a box marked "memories," and put them out of sight.

Pick Varsity and Junior Varsity teams.
Some of the things you own look absolutely adorable on you. Some pieces of clothing are fine, but if you had to describe them in one word it would be "eh." The idea is to eventually get an all-star wardrobe, but for right now it's okay to deem some items of clothing all-stars and let others warm the bench. Varsity items get placed right out in front on hangers you can easily reach. Junior varsity pieces get relegated to drawers and worn on weekends, when you're running errands, or just hanging around the house.

Look for patterns.
There is always a code waiting to be cracked in any closet. Have you bought the same shirt repeatedly, only in different colors? Do you own five pairs of black pants, practically identical in style? Looking for patterns makes you more aware of what you own and ultimately saves money. Next time you're out shopping you can say "no" to those black pants on sale (which is how you ended up with the five pairs in the first place).

Invest in hangers.
An inexpensive way to get your clothes organized is to go out and purchase all new hangers so everything hangs uniformly. When you're still yawning at 7:00 a.m., everything will be at eye level in your closet and you can grab-and-go.

Shuffle Your Shoes.
Twice a year, reorganize your shoes. In the fall, place closed-toe heels and boots in an accessible place. In the spring, break out your sandals and put the boots away. This allows you to mix and match wardrobe items on the fly. Shoes are something that can wear out at the end of each season, so go through your supply more regularly to keep your feet up to date.

REUSE

After working with a variety of clients, I've unearthed a deep, dark secret regarding how people view their wardrobes. This thing is so bizarre and deeply-rooted a notion that clients hesitate when I say the words out loud: Your clothes aren't married.

Do you have a pair of pants that you only wear with a particular sweater? A blouse that you only match with one skirt? Well, then you're one of the many people in this country who suffer from My-Clothes-Are-Married-itis. The good news is that there is such a thing as relationship therapy for fashion, and it involves letting your clothes flirt with each other, not forcing them to be co-dependent.  It's time to separate the suit jacket from the pair of slacks it came with and get both of them out there to mingle. It's time to mix it up, because there are more outfits in the sea. Here are some simple ways to give your wardrobe (and your wallet) more game:

Let your LBD (little black dress) play in the daytime.
The LBD is a wardrobe staple made legendary by CoCo Chanel. Many women utilize it as their go-to item for after-dark events. But, this wardrobe lifesaver can be repurposed for daytime, as well. The idea of the LBD is that you can dress it up or down, so why not play with it a little to make it more office friendly? Add a blazer. Is it cut so you can wear a crisp white button-down underneath? How about a button-down that is striped? Plus,  you can always…

Add a Belt.
This definitely goes for the LBD, but is one of the quickest ways to change an entire look. Many solid-color dresses and even sweaters can benefit from the accessory pop of a belt. Try it high on the waist or sling it around your hips depending on what's most flattering.

Reinvent your accessories.
Pull out your jewelry box and start thinking creatively about different ways to utilize the items. A scarf would look very Parisian tied around the handles of your favorite handbag. A chain necklace may look fabulous wrapped around your wrist or your waist. Instead of wearing just one brooch, what if you wore a cluster on your winter jacket? Or put one on a long chain to wear around your neck? Viewing items with fresh eyes and playing the "what if…" game can reinvigorate your clothes and bring fresh life to items that are already at your disposal.

Your clothes (and accessories) are meant to socialize with each other. Sometimes our wardrobe combination patterns are so entrenched that it's difficult to break patterns. A good exercise is to take out some basics like a blazer, a graphic T-shirt, a pair of jeans, a pair of black pants, a button-down shirt, and a black skirt. Now, how many combinations can you make with just those items? Well, you can take the button-down and wear it with the pants, the jeans, or the skirt. Add a blazer over each of those outfits. Now put the graphic T-shirt underneath the button-down. What would happen if you slowly added items to make this combination group larger and larger? Bingo--you’ve got a bangin' wardrobe, and you haven't spent a cent.

RECYCLE

So, now you have all sorts of new hook-ups happening in your closet. What's next? Fraternize with other wardrobes, take this thing to the streets! Many times, we go to our closets and think, "If I only had X," and of course the first way we think of getting X is by going shopping. But, shopping is far from the only option—especially now.

Here are some ways to recycle when it comes to fashion:

Throw a party.
Not just any party, mind you, but a clothing swap. Invite a group of girlfriends over and tell them to bring clothing, jewelry, and shoes that they don't use. Display the items, give everyone a "shopping bag," and allow guests time to choose items to take home. Anything left over clothes go to charity. (See our list below for a list of national fashion-related non-profits, and check out the Shoe Leather blog for photos and a recap of Shoestring's regular clothing swap for more info on hosting your own.)

Go old school and borrow.
Remember when you were 15 and you and your BFF were attached at the hip? You did everything together and even borrowed each other’s clothes. Why don’t you return to that time and ask a friend if she would be willing to lend you a dress for your next date? Or heels for giving that huge presentation at work? Just remember the two rules of borrowing: 1. Thou salt return the item promptly 2. Thou salt return the item clean and in perfect condition. CNN reported this week that fashion lending companies like Bag, Borrow, or Steal are seeing unprecedented growth this year. Skip the membership fees of these subscription services by signing up a few fashionable friends instead.

CHARITY

Recycling also means paying it forward. It's time to take all of those clothes that you "reduced" from your closet and donate them to a local charity. Even if it doesn’t fit, is the wrong color, or is a pattern that sends you into the fetal position, it might work on someone else out there. (That’s the great thing about fashion.)

Bring along an itemized list of the pieces that you're donating and then file the receipt in a place that you will remember for tax season. Because getting a bigger tax break for your old A-line skirt is a little bit of heaven. 

Here are some great organizations where you can donate your clothes:

Dress for Success: "Suits to Self-Sufficiency"
A national organization providing professional attire to women who are economically disadvantaged and trying to re-enter the workforce or climb the corporate ladder, founded in 1996 by then law student Nancy Lublin and three nuns from Spanish Harlem.

The Glass Slipper Project
Collects formal dresses for teenage girls who would like to attend prom but cannot afford a dress. This organization is strictly located in Chicago, Illinois, but their website offers a helpful prom dress donation guide on where to donate dresses in other states or whom to team up with in order to start an organization or prom dress drive event.

Goodwill Industries International
Through a community-based approach, Goodwill has been providing employment and training opportunities for people with disabilities and disadvantages around the world since 1902, when it was founded in Boston by Reverend Edgar J. Helms as a social innovation to take castoffs from the rich and give back to the poor.